Go the al glass jobs great

I kitesurf and surf on my UL Glass Taylor Knox and I just bought a JS Prodigy SICK board BTW and its not even getting deck dents. I was wondering the same thing before too.

Ok I have had a Fred rubble 5.10 for about 3 months sick board
It rides well in all surf as for heal dents they are deep and have many
It is a standard glass job if I can get this summer out of it I will be happy
It may be in 2 bits by then

swalkington said...

Maybe order a custom js or local shaper and tell them what glass job you want.

Disagree Cmc pu with poly is the go.

swalkington said...

Disagree Cmc pu with poly is the go.

When you've actually tried it get back to me! No offense but the only benefit of Poly is production times, as a product it is inferior to Epoxy. Many manufacturers are in the dark ages with some myth that epoxy is hard to work with or causes cancer or something. It's actually way better for the workers health wise and the new epoxies are almost the same to work with as Poly albeit a touch slower.

You'd probably be surprised to know how many pro's are already using epoxy over PU. You can glass double layer decks for the same weight as a single.

I know of at least 2 very high profile Aussie Shapers that are right now glassing all team
boards this way as their 'secret'...... Less snaps, boards come back in better condition
and mainly as they keep the feel of a new Poly. Poly gets harder which makes the board stiffer losing the pop.

I have tried all the different forms of eps with epoxy (FireWire, fibreflex etc) and none of em have been brilliant. One thing I could try is pu with epoxy but am loving my standard pu poly boards at moment.

CMC said...

swalkington said...

I have tried all the different forms of eps with epoxy (FireWire, fibreflex etc) and none of em have been brilliant. One thing I could try is pu with epoxy but am loving my standard pu poly boards at moment.

Which is exactly what I am saying. PU cores feel great, glassed in epoxy rather than poly you keep the feel of a new PU/Poly longer with added strength.

The only negative is that Epoxy resin is more expensive than Polyester so you will expect to pay a bit more for a PU Blank glassed in Epoxy but most people will happily pay more for a product with greater durability and extended performance.

Roger that, over. Will most shakers glass pu boards with epoxy these days if asked? Also you mentioned some shapers are secretly glassing pu boards in epoxy.....why is this secret? Is it due to the stigma surftech corks have landed the word epoxy into?

Not keeping it secret due to the Epoxy stigma but due to believing they have an advantage for there team riders. The boards look and feel the same but team guys are frothing over the twang an epoxy glassed board offers.

It's a silly misconception that had people believing that any board using epoxy resin is in any way related to a stiff old floaty surftech just because they use epoxy resin in them.

It's just a resin that can be used in many applications although it has far superior properties.

Many factories will not glass with it as they are not set up to do so. Quite a large percentage of boards in the US are PU Epoxy already and this will transfer. Word has it that even Kelly has been riding them to make sure his magic boards stay together.

arkgee said...

^^^^^
It dont matter what you say.....it's still a pr#*k to work with...so be prepared to be bent over when you order one.

Agreed I hate fixing tuflites ect, pu is so easy

Here is something I found in a 1 second Google search that explains the difference between Poly and Epoxy pretty well.


members.tripod.com/c22_fleet_6/epoxy-vs-polyester.html

i reckon the epoxy on pu is probably a good method but it also creates extra hassles glassing with the wait time in between lamiates and filler coats . on the other hand super light pu foam will dent less but has less float . i would stay with feather light foam 4+4 on deck with 6 oz onthe bottom . or even better get an eps core with decent epoxy/composite lamiates for not much more. make sure it dosent have pvc foam lamiates.

polyester and sun cure...both sides laminated...fillers both sides...perfect mechanical bond all coats..ready for fin plugs...all before 10am.

epoxy...3 days...go figure....its tuff poo no doubt about it...but it just aint viable in my book...kudos to the guys doing good work with it though....and this thing about it being healthier...well I dont know about that either...there are guys that cant touch the stuff at all after using it for awhile....I have been using polyester for 40+ years and I'm fffine

Solo said...

CMC,
what's your take on heating then... if glassing a PU blank in epoxy, i would imagine that the laminate would need to be baked as per coolite/epoxy?
And then what temp?, because heating/baking serves to make the resin stiffer and more brittle (creating a memory) up to that preheated temp.

Solo

Post curing definitely makes the product better. The new surfboard epoxies are designed for room temp cure to be usable so not totally necessary. Saying that I think I remember that Kinetix for example requires 40 degrees for at least 3 hours to fully post cure, many people working with this stuff daily are not post curing and not having problems, it is stronger, speeds up sanding times etc if this method is used. Other epoxies are different of course. I'm not sure if that answers the q though other than to say some are post curing, many are not. I have not heard of issues with either approach here in QLD anyway. We have good temps obviously.

Regarding PU/Epoxy I can't imagine that 40 degrees would create issues. Good to know though, will ask around.

shaper said...

get a custom board made & get a 6"ounce deck patch layed in from tail to chest .....works great!!!!! & not much more weight at all!!!!

On a PU board I normally order 4oz on the bottom with 6oz on top. One of my customs was in near perfect condition when I sold it. The blank was a hi density one and it was fairly light, it was only a 6,3. My AB is glassed the same and has few little dents where my front foot is, no major denting at all
Ive never had one off the rack that lasted that well.