Ok guys, I'm new here, but I have been reading the forum for the last few months. I have a question about being caught inside in big surf, and by big I mean above 8ft. What the hell do you do? Try and duck dive? if so, how the hell do you get deep enough, or do you bail and get washed in?
How do the crew surfing pipe deal with an 10ft pitching tube breaking right in front of them?

Are you talking about Strickos? If you are I havnt worked it out either

i used to think always duck dive too untill about a tonne of white water ripped my shoulder out. can't bail though if someone behind.

Well places like Pipe you can paddle out without getting your hair wet,then paddle over to the peak.Cant believe you sh'ers didn't know this god dam

newguy said...

Careful Mac, you know the SB'ers do bite. Not to mention Chrispys one of us now with his bullet Wouldn't want him ramming into your splice like TB's would ya

Well this place needs a little heart beat,its slower than the NSW's backs
When I first joined the C I spent some time in here and it was lively back them.
Oh, on Chrispy,no chance of that,some people you mite share a wave with and Chrispy is not one of them

I doubt anyone could duckdive an 8ft'er that just broke right in front of em and come up holding their board. Only way is to check behind you and bail your board and dive down as far as you can go swimming to the back of the wave. Go watch mainbreak on a decent day, or any waves 10ft +, no one duck dives a broken wave. The pro's are no different.

Too many cool cats in the line up doggie[}:)]

That would be great doggie show us east coast guys the good spots

Was surfing down south last Friday was solid but not 10ft pipe think the bouy was 3m in the morning. Anyways bloke I paddled out with bailed under a set that cleaned us all up, pulled the leggie plug clean out of his board. I was pretty close to him and saw clearly the look of nakedness on his face, stuck out the back with no board. Sure enoughe before hed got very far with the swim another set absolutely nailed him. He got in fine I heard later!

Its always a gamble to let go of your board but sometimes you got to.

Alright guys, I see loads of people saying duck dive at all costs, and some punters saying paddle around the peak...genius, why didn't I think of that.
Maybe a better example would be somewhere like Puerto Escondido, or some other beachie that can handle some swell.
I have surfed for a long time, but one thing that I have never figured out is how those mad men surfing massive waves deal with getting caught inside.
I have duck dived some big waves, just getting that perfect spot right in front of the lip, those ones where you come through thinking how did I do that? but I have also had plenty of trips back up over the falls.
Does the fact that there is a longer period between waves make a difference also? Giving the surfer a bit more time to get the board back and time to get motoring out of the impact zone?

Paddling around the peak that's how its done at Pipe (you mentioned )Pipe,your also answering some of your own questions and you sound like you know what your talking about so why ask kooks

Duck dive,if it catches you,you get pushed back and try again and againand all else fails I'm doing the bailOnly an nob would paddle out behind you in large surf

Never I'm the kook king daddy doggie

No mate its 4.30 and working like no tomorrow

I dont like letting go of my board but in some situations you have no choice. The quandary I always have in large surf is when a sneaker set looms and whether to paddle or sit still. Recall at mainbreak deciding the latter and those that scratched for the horizon got it on the head. I copped a big wall of whitewater but when I surfaced some of those who attempted to Paddle for it ended up behind me. Lucky that time.

jbshack said...

DrD said...

Alright guys, I see loads of people saying duck dive at all costs, and some punters saying paddle around the peak...genius, why didn't I think of that.
Maybe a better example would be somewhere like Puerto Escondido, or some other beachie that can handle some swell.
I have surfed for a long time, but one thing that I have never figured out is how those mad men surfing massive waves deal with getting caught inside.
I have duck dived some big waves, just getting that perfect spot right in front of the lip, those ones where you come through thinking how did I do that? but I have also had plenty of trips back up over the falls.
Does the fact that there is a longer period between waves make a difference also? Giving the surfer a bit more time to get the board back and time to get motoring out of the impact zone?

Sorry mate not being a smart arse just stating that after loosing my board i don't like to let it go anymore. But i guess the big stuff i would have a jet ski standing by so for the game, I'd say just chuck it and worst case get picked up by the ski

Puerto you ask, I can tell you about that, you can duckdive,duckdive or duckive, can't throw your board as your not wearing a leggie. Ahh memory's of getting airborn coming out the back of a wave.

you are right mac its been pretty dead in here