Can the surfer influence how the wave breaks?

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Can the surfer influence how the wave breaks?

> 10 years ago

Shortboards Longboarding

Slim Jim

202 posts

Slim Jim

SA, 202 posts

1 Jun 2008 6:13pm

I used to think "No - the waves just gunna break any which way it feels like. I'm insignificant compared to the amount of storm energy stored in the wave. Humbling really....."

But yesterday I delayed my surfing (after reading this Tip in Nick Carroll's "The complete guide to surfing your best - vol 2" - Top Tip Nick!) and it felt like the wave started to jack more everytime I top turned over the lip. It might have been just I was in a much better position in the pocket, but it felt like I was taking some energy out of the wave and the wave was transferring it forward in front of me. The energy I took turned into speed, enabling me to head more vertically up the wave to hit the next lip section.

What do you think?

TOAD

NSW

305 posts

TOAD

NSW, 305 posts

2 Jun 2008 11:40am

Don't think so

DL

659 posts

WA, 659 posts

6 Jun 2008 10:25pm

Of course you influence how it breaks.

Ever had a kook half drop in on you and crumble the face?

KEARNSY

1322 posts

KEARNSY

WA, 1322 posts

7 Jun 2008 8:42am

Interesting theory, Guess I can agree on this one! MAybee you should send this one into Myth busters , just to be sure

Ian Burgess

23 posts

Ian Burgess

WA, 23 posts

7 Jun 2008 1:03pm

I find this theory interesting! When you consider that a wave is simply the movement of energy through the ocean, it seems that the force of your board turning sharply may possibly deflect some of this energy sideways. There is also the consideration that the energy from the momentum of the surfboard would be propelled forward during turning, which would also have a minor impact. However, I am a little hesitant to believe that the energy transfered through the turning of your surfboard would be sufficient to change the wave to a noticable extent. Congratualations on a very interesting topic, which provokes scientific analysis of the sport we love. I would love to see more of this on the forum. Well done Slim

Slim Jim

202 posts

Slim Jim

SA, 202 posts

9 Jun 2008 9:55am

I think I'm on the "can" side...

We all know jetskis in small surf can ruin it - wakes going everywhere. ... 'though on bigger waves (it looks from video) the jet ski in the right place doesn't have too much effect....

I look at video of Mick, particularly on his backhand, and I'm convinced he's affecting how the wave breaks - in a very positive way! You don't become World Champ for nothin'.

If we can influence how the wave is going to break then we all become better surfers when we learn how the lines we carve feedback into the wave...

Happy surfin' everyone!

andyc

202 posts

andyc

WA, 202 posts

14 Jul 2008 9:47am

I've wondered myself whether a late snap under the lip pushes water into the lip and helps it to throw.

Just like Slim Jim, I'm thinking yes, you can alter the way the wave breaks, but not really enough to make much of a difference.

My under the lip snap, for example, won't make a ounce of difference on a good wave.

Poida

1922 posts

Poida

WA, 1922 posts

14 Jul 2008 11:59am

talking to some people and watching the really good surfers taking off deep on some NW tube waves they will tell you that people paddling on the shoulder will help shut the section down or make it crumble early rather than pitch.

I dont know about you as the surfer affecting the wave , maybe a bit, I recall something about conservation of mass and energy, you gotta be taking some energy out of the wave and transfering it

Brooko

1672 posts

Brooko

1672 posts

14 Jul 2008 6:55pm

Yeah i reckon to a certain extent in waves up to 6ft, as dl said you can tell the way someone dropping in or getting caught up in the lip brings the whole section down on you. I think in big, big solid surf the wave makes all the moves, your just trying to out run the beast

Slim Jim

202 posts

Slim Jim

SA, 202 posts

27 Aug 2008 7:59am

Does being in the right spot in the tube stabilise the tube?

barbs

67 posts

barbs

67 posts

27 Aug 2008 4:20pm

Brooko said...

Yeah i reckon to a certain extent in waves up to 6ft, as dl said you can tell the way someone dropping in or getting caught up in the lip brings the whole section down on you. I think in big, big solid surf the wave makes all the moves, your just trying to out run the beast

Think you mite dead rite their Brooko, the bigger the wave the less you are able to deform it..

Loner

122 posts

Loner

WA, 122 posts

2 Sep 2008 7:48pm

Slim Jim said...

I used to think "No - the waves just gunna break any which way it feels like. I'm insignificant compared to the amount of storm energy stored in the wave. Humbling really....."

But yesterday I delayed my surfing (after reading this Tip in Nick Carroll's "The complete guide to surfing your best - vol 2" - Top Tip Nick!) and it felt like the wave started to jack more everytime I top turned over the lip. It might have been just I was in a much better position in the pocket, but it felt like I was taking some energy out of the wave and the wave was transferring it forward in front of me. The energy I took turned into speed, enabling me to head more vertically up the wave to hit the next lip section.

What do you think?

How utterly friggin' rediculous.
Hey my friend... It's THe WAVE that will break. You wiil have NO INFLUENCE on how that will happen !!
What you DO need to do is READ IT and respond.

Please Register, or first...

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Can the surfer influence how the wave breaks?

Slim Jim

TOAD

DL

KEARNSY

Ian Burgess

Slim Jim

andyc

Poida

Brooko

Slim Jim

barbs

Loner

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