Building first board advice

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PRAWNDOG
PRAWNDOG
WA
306 posts
WA, 306 posts
7 Jan 2014 11:45am
So wanting to start a future project when I get some more funds and build my first board, thought I would start a thread for people to post up any advice, hints or past experiences they come across that could help me out. Been reading a bit on the Internet, watching a few useful videos, like I said I don't really have the funds right now so just doing heaps of homework at the moment, saw another dude post pictures on here of a board he built looked really cool. Cheers for any help
Bertie
Bertie
NSW
1351 posts
NSW, 1351 posts
7 Jan 2014 4:28pm
well its going to be a lot of fun, but a little stressful at times.

spend 357hrs reading swaylocks...before you make your first post!!!

watch shaping 101 and glassing 101 about 15 times and make notes!!!!

set up you work space nicely. take your time to hunt for all the bits and pieces and try and keep the area clean.
setup with some fluros so you have good shaping light. get a surform and a couple of the shapers pads. they make it pretty easy.
when shaping i used 80then 150 grit then glass. ( i dont feel there is any point doing 80, 120,180 on the blank)

Buy some P2 dust masks. get some safety glasses (foam dust is a bitch in your eye!)

you can buy a pretty good planer from supercheap auto for $60 (on special for 44 sometimes) that will do a great job with 2 mins modification.
make sure your shaping stands dont wobble and are padded adequately!

Count everything you do mentally to ensure you kee things symetrical!!!

use UV catalyst when glassing. gives you ages to do the lam so no stress (or much less).
The smell may piss you ur MRS and the neighbours.
use drop sheets to you dont ruin the garage!!!

get the 7" sanding pad from shapers and some 80(then maybe 150 and 240 (skip the 120, 180 maybe). I think ryobi do a cheap sander polisher. totally worth the money and saves a lot of time and effort!
sand the laps as level as you can before doing the next layer (or hot coat) to reduce the total amount of time you end up sanding. (i havent done a cut lap yet)
Swaylocks talk a lot about basting laps but i dont speak 'merican so dunno what they are on about. one day i'll learn

The fin install jigs for FCS are a must.

Dont buy a leash plug hole cutter from shapers (the one they sell you you can buy cheaper at bunnings and it will fark up your boards!) just get a holesaw from bunnings (29mm for small leash plug, 32mm for FCS) instead. Sutton is good.

Colin Earle has everything you need but you pay for convenience and you will save money if you turn up in a rusty POS car

and your welcome to check out my setup when i'm in Perth sometime. it aint fancy and i've still got a long way to go but i'm having a lot of fun doing it!

Anyone wanna buy some black pigment. i needed a little but colin only had 1L at the time. i'm happy to split it up.

And most of all take your time and enjoy the process!
Tux
Tux
VIC
3829 posts
Tux Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
7 Jan 2014 4:30pm
Watch heaps of videos on youtube
Read all you can from swaylocks
Have a clear picture of what you are trying to make
Take your time
Ask for advise from other builders
....get some other **** to glass it...
JasonProsser
JasonProsser
NSW
268 posts
NSW, 268 posts
7 Jan 2014 4:46pm
I started with something simple and different as my first project. I shaped a paipo from paulownia wood supplied by surfinggreen.com.au/?product_cat=alaia-blanks Goes well, is a lot cheaper than a glass board and you learn a lot about refining a shape on an easy to work with media. I chose to go traditional and used only hand tools too. It's a good alternative way to pick up some skills and have a board you can refine and have a blast on. Or if you want to go larger, try an alaia. Rob Machado can't be wrong surely.

PRAWNDOG
PRAWNDOG
WA
306 posts
WA, 306 posts
7 Jan 2014 8:12pm
Thanks guys, just picked up the dvd's of shapers website so should be good, out of curiosity were did you get your blank foam/board from Bertie. Had a look at swaylocks so much information on there, is interesting everyone has there preferred methods especially when it comes to glassing
Oldmate78
Oldmate78
172 posts
172 posts
7 Jan 2014 8:18pm
Ted the kiwi in the longboard room has made quite a few from what I have seen mate...check his posts and photos in the longboard room....he may be able to help you out.
Ados
Ados
WA
421 posts
WA, 421 posts
7 Jan 2014 8:39pm
Stinky bloody messy business is making surfboards. Does feel good to ride one of your own creation. Expect to fark up at least 50% of your glass jobs and to take habitually take off too much foam with your new nifty planer or sureform. Don't forget safety gear like ventilator masks etc cause the resin is horribly toxic.

I would advice buying a pre-shaped blank if possible and then doing the minimum to get it ready for glassing. You could even pay to have someone glass your board for the first couple of times. As mentioned Col Earl is a legend and has all the business.

Fin Systems - for the fist handful of boards I made I just used good old glassed in fins until I got the hang of the FCS fin jig/system.

I made boards for me and my mates for a few years and I learned so much. Some of my mates still ride the boards we made and one is hitting the waves in Norway five years later.

Having said that, I got really sick of all the mess, resin, offcuts, foam dust everywhere (something like end scene of Scarface) and gave up when I had my first boy. Probably wouldnt do it again as I lack the time and patience.

But, it is a lot of fun.

dont forget safety gear.

PaddlePig
PaddlePig
WA
421 posts
WA, 421 posts
7 Jan 2014 10:29pm
I used a paint brush to squeeze the resin across the cloth, not a squeegee. A reasonably thick paint brush. It seems to flex easier than the squeegee but doesn't disrupt the cloth. Test the paint brush in your hand first, you want one that is reasonably solid so it can still squeeze excess resin out.
Bertie
Bertie
NSW
1351 posts
NSW, 1351 posts
8 Jan 2014 12:45pm
PRAWNDOG said..
Thanks guys, just picked up the dvd's of shapers website so should be good, out of curiosity were did you get your blank foam/board from Bertie. Had a look at swaylocks so much information on there, is interesting everyone has there preferred methods especially when it comes to glassing


I got blanks from colin. I did buy a few on sale from surfblanks last year at a nice price.
glass some from colin, come from shapers (but they fold it up which can mess the weave up) and some I had from an old boat project 10 years ago.
only buy your resin when your ready to glass. I find if it sits around for a while it goes funny.

If you use UV catalyst you will have very few major dramas. It gives you an hour to get the lam right. the pros can do it in 10 min!!!!
use about 1g of catalyst to 1kg of resin. any more than that and it will yellow. also give it 10-15min to dissolve and stir regularly during that time.

Buy a squeegee. only use a brush for hot coats or touching up dry laps before you put it in the sun with UV.
blueprint
blueprint
WA
321 posts
WA, 321 posts
8 Jan 2014 11:49am
Bertie said..

PRAWNDOG said..
Thanks guys, just picked up the dvd's of shapers website so should be good, out of curiosity were did you get your blank foam/board from Bertie. Had a look at swaylocks so much information on there, is interesting everyone has there preferred methods especially when it comes to glassing


I got blanks from colin. I did buy a few on sale from surfblanks last year at a nice price.
glass some from colin, come from shapers (but they fold it up which can mess the weave up) and some I had from an old boat project 10 years ago.
only buy your resin when your ready to glass. I find if it sits around for a while it goes funny.

If you use UV catalyst you will have very few major dramas. It gives you an hour to get the lam right. the pros can do it in 10 min!!!!
use about 1g of catalyst to 1kg of resin. any more than that and it will yellow. also give it 10-15min to dissolve and stir regularly during that time.

Buy a squeegee. only use a brush for hot coats or touching up dry laps before you put it in the sun with UV.


I've used glass from shapers recently, came rolled back onto and old cardboard roll tube, no worries on the weave. With that said if you are just using normal S glass and polyester then just go see Col, only reason I went to shapers was for some innegra and a couple of different cloths I wanted to try, I'll be going back to S glass though.

On the UV stuff, it's great just don't use it anywhere that is in anyway opaque (i.e. just use it on your lam without any pigments or tints) otherwise it won't cure properly. If you want to use a fin system I'd go with the FCS fusion plug (really simple to install) or the new version (whatever that's called, but uses pretty much the same as the fusion system).

Only other tip is if you are like me it sometimes takes a few weeks to get through the whole process, if this is the case and getting to Col is easy then just buy the supplies you need for each stage and then go back, main reason for this is that filler doesn't last all that long in the plastic bottles on the shelf (as little as a couple of weeks) and if it deteriorates much your sanding job is going to be a nightmare (you'll have to wet sand everything).
Bertie
Bertie
NSW
1351 posts
NSW, 1351 posts
8 Jan 2014 3:34pm
your not wrong blueprint.
I had a bottle of filler. did the first board no probs. 4 weeks later did the 2nd board and spent 2 days and 15m of 80 grit to get the crap off coz it would just clog the paper!!! now i'm stressing coz i bought a bottle and was planning to be ready to have glassed another board over christmas but i'm not ready!!! and it wont happen for another 6 weeks i'd guess with work and stuff. maye i'll go put it in my dads coolroom.

As for tints they work fine with the UV ,Pigments not so much.
Also you can use a little bit of MEKP like 0.25% instead of 1.5% in with your UV if the tint isnt completely see through. worked fine on my first board where i used mainly tint but put the tinyest little bit of white in to make the colour POP!.
if it hasnt fully cooked off coz it was too opaqe (or the sun was getting too low on the horizon, you can just do your hotcoat straight over the top with MEKP at like 2.5 to 3% and it will bake off the lam below.
blueprint
blueprint
WA
321 posts
WA, 321 posts
8 Jan 2014 12:46pm
Bertie said..

your not wrong blueprint.
I had a bottle of filler. did the first board no probs. 4 weeks later did the 2nd board and spent 2 days and 15m of 80 grit to get the crap off coz it would just clog the paper!!! now i'm stressing coz i bought a bottle and was planning to be ready to have glassed another board over christmas but i'm not ready!!! and it wont happen for another 6 weeks i'd guess with work and stuff. maye i'll go put it in my dads coolroom.

As for tints they work fine with the UV ,Pigments not so much.
Also you can use a little bit of MEKP like 0.25% instead of 1.5% in with your UV if the tint isnt completely see through. worked fine on my first board where i used mainly tint but put the tinyest little bit of white in to make the colour POP!.
if it hasnt fully cooked off coz it was too opaqe (or the sun was getting too low on the horizon, you can just do your hotcoat straight over the top with MEKP at like 2.5 to 3% and it will bake off the lam below.


If that's the case bertie then just get some additive (think it's styrene from memory) from col, add it and it'll be fine again as from what I remember what happens is the wax separates and just needs to be mixed back in but needs the styrene to dissolve or something like that
Bertie
Bertie
NSW
1351 posts
NSW, 1351 posts
8 Jan 2014 7:17pm
wax in styrene will freshen that batch up, just not sure how much to use. ... maybe a little styreme monomer as well for thinning for gloss coats too would be handy.
blueprint
blueprint
WA
321 posts
WA, 321 posts
8 Jan 2014 4:21pm
yep I'm no chemist but again from memory I think I put a couple of mils in a litre on my last board
Clarky
Clarky
QLD
295 posts
QLD, 295 posts
9 Jan 2014 9:12am
Good luck with the project. Google Surfer Steve he has explained everything that you need to know and he throws in some methods of doing things if your a beginner and haven't got all the tools. I teach students at school how to make surfboards and have found that they have less problems installing future fin boxes as long as you can get your hands on a jig. Because we are a school and there are long intervals between making boards we only have laminating resin. When we do a filler coat we add one cap of wax and styrene to 1 litre of lam resin and 1 1/2 caps for gloss coat.
Tux
Tux
VIC
3829 posts
Tux Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
9 Jan 2014 11:13am
Pro box are a good fin system or the FCS plugs of ebay are also OK if your on a budget
Bertie
Bertie
NSW
1351 posts
NSW, 1351 posts
18 Jan 2014 8:04pm
So any updates??

Has anyone been mowing foam over the weekend??

I think I'll make one like this. 5'10x19.5ish by 2 3/4 or whatever the blank tells me!
No channels, no swallow tails, Arc nose. Tint, with opaque sanding coat. single all the way through.
snapwidget.com/u/293385227

maybe I can shape and glass a freshie in 3 days between ending this FIFO job and 2 weeks in Bali?
Bertie
Bertie
NSW
1351 posts
NSW, 1351 posts
22 Jan 2014 6:33pm
Looking to do an order from Surfblanks. Anyone want to share a roll of 4oz glass or need anything? or wanna buy some glass? should work out to about $3.50 /m off the roll.

hmmm i dunno.
CRF
CRF
WA
82 posts
CRF CRF
WA, 82 posts
22 Jan 2014 8:34pm
I used UV powder for poly for the first time today, laminating the deck of a new board, ( after screwing the base because it kicked too quickly). have to say UV makes lapping, and colour work a whole lot less stressful. Have another board to glass in the next couple of days and will not go back to catalyst again. Where a bouts are you Bertie, I could do with some 4 ounce?
Bertie
Bertie
NSW
1351 posts
NSW, 1351 posts
23 Jan 2014 6:42pm
CRF said..
I used UV powder for poly for the first time today, laminating the deck of a new board, ( after screwing the base because it kicked too quickly). have to say UV makes lapping, and colour work a whole lot less stressful. Have another board to glass in the next couple of days and will not go back to catalyst again. Where a bouts are you Bertie, I could do with some 4 ounce?


I'm in City beach. I still have ordered anything. Going to try and decide tonight.
Ted the Kiwi
Ted the Kiwi
NSW
14256 posts
NSW, 14256 posts
23 Jan 2014 8:30pm
CRF said..

I used UV powder for poly for the first time today, laminating the deck of a new board, ( after screwing the base because it kicked too quickly). have to say UV makes lapping, and colour work a whole lot less stressful. Have another board to glass in the next couple of days and will not go back to catalyst again.


Are you also using UV for the hot coat? I have used UV on my last 2 boards and really wish I had discovered it sooner - its heaven. Although I do not use it on the hot coat - was advised by one of the shapers in these parts to only use it for the lam coats. As the UV can be a bit temperamental at times you need to make sure that the wax rises - and given that I have already had one problem with this I just stick to the traditional solution. Plus with the hot coat it only takes 5 mins or so, so its never going to go off on you anyway and there is significantly less opportunity to stuff up compared to the lam coats. They say that 100 things can go wrong whilst glassing and normally only 1 or 2 do. I found about 15 to 20 problems the first time, a few less the next few and only had 5 real issues last time around. I usually put 0.25% hardener in the lam mix when using UV anyway if I am using lots of colour in the resin - which is typical. Make sure you spend lots of time getting the tapping right if you are going to do cut laps - I did not really think this part through on the second board I did (long gap after the first) and when I went to cut them off the damage had been done. Lesson learned. You can see the issue on the third pic where the left back end is not lined up ideally. Not the end of the world but any easy farrrk up to avoid

Loving this thread chaps. Keep it up. Wait to you start Prawndog you will not want to stop.

Have you guys got some pics of your boards to share? Here are my first 4 efforts. I started with a 9'2" Mal as I did not have one in the quiver, the next one is similar to a CI POD shape, followed by a 5'11" baked potato effort and then a 6'10" single fin inspired by a Joel Tudor shape for a mates wife as a birthday present. Our garage is out of bounds for me at the moment as we are moving house shortly - so with no place to work for now I am playing around on 3D Shaper instead.









CRF
CRF
WA
82 posts
CRF CRF
WA, 82 posts
24 Jan 2014 10:44pm
Ted,
Nice boards mate, just done the lam, and not going to use the uv for the hot coat, as you say the hot coat should only take 5mins so using catalyst. I will have to jump on the other 'puter, my other boards were hollow wooden boards glassed using epoxy, so foam and poly is a nice new challenge. UV was great for the lam, will certainly use it from now on.
Bertie, I'm down in freo, if you get a roll of 4oz I could do with ~10m and can fix you up

Cheers gents!
blueprint
blueprint
WA
321 posts
WA, 321 posts
25 Jan 2014 1:51am
I don't use the UV on the hot coat though I have done in the past...to be honest I wasn't impressed with the result, the way the resin goes off with the UV seems to be very fast and this seams to me to stop the surface from getting that waxy smooth finish that you get with MEKP.
Bertie
Bertie
NSW
1351 posts
NSW, 1351 posts
25 Jan 2014 10:28am
CRF said..
Bertie, I'm down in freo, if you get a roll of 4oz I could do with ~10m and can fix you up



Ordered the roll yesterday, but it wont ship until tuesday, so i'm not sure if it will arrive before I go to bali. sing out if you will need some before 18th Feb, coz i've got 6 or 8m i bought last month i havent used yet.
CRF
CRF
WA
82 posts
CRF CRF
WA, 82 posts
27 Jan 2014 3:42am
Thanks Bertie, I've got enough to last me the next board, so no rush. When you get back I'll PM you and organize some 4 Oz though if that's cool. Enjoy the holiday!!
mort69
mort69
WA
178 posts
WA, 178 posts
2 Feb 2014 9:26pm
Put the resin in the fridge so it goes off slower,but don't contaminate food
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