You could try to put in that extra paddle before getting to your feet. When you are at the stage when you would normally stand put in an extra paddle to really get yourself in there. Put your wait forward over the board try not to lean back and above all else keep trying. Be committed.

If you find where to get 'em ..let me know I need a set..or so the balrog says>

Take two extra paddles, if ya going take off sideways ( serious) if you do you don't lose time turning the board, not fully sideways but enough so when you plant your feet you already have a chance to make the section. And yeah as already said commit. If your going than go if you don't want anything to do with it don't go near it. Whether its 4 foot or 100 don't get lured into the inside on a big day. Don't take off on the shoulder thinking its safer cause its a bit smaller ,less hectic ( not saying you should sit way way up the point or out the back either) the shoulder on larger waves is the most sketchy area to enter, by that stage the water is already moving and has in fact increased in speed, considering you need to be past the top third of the wave once it starts to break ( to make the take off) taking off on the shoulder is suicide. Nowadays if its large when I assess it I also take into account set size. I think to myself would I take off on the biggest set I have seen in the last twenty minutes. If the answer is no than you shouldn't go out there. I used to go out on days when I wouldn't ride set waves, I got more pumped and snapped more boards because of this mentality. If your not into it cause of fear or size or even your having an off day don't try to paddle out. You become a hazard to everyone out there. This is by no means information for just you. Sometimes I would do well to stand in front of a mirror and tell myself the same. All surfers whether they admit or not will now and than paddle out when they know they shouldn't. I am guilty of it on several occasions, some successful where i qm the dude riding the short board who made the sickest pit. Other times however I have been the under gunned dick getting in the way. The guy drifting down the line with no board. The guy coughing on the beach and been laughed at by kids. The guy limping and bleeding up the path and getting in the car. The man who got thrown over the falls and scorpion his own head with his feet. Anyway out of all these outcomes only one ends up with me being the charger who makes a sick big heavy pit. Spewing aye it is a **** reality. But. Once or twice a year I like to go through those options. I like to think of it like a choose your own adventure story. As a final waffle on whilst in dribbling away it pays to surf different boards and mix it up. You may Fonda board that goes well in 1 foot does not in 6. Small subtle rocker and template fins etc will really affect a boards capabilities. As size of waves increase all these factors compound expedientially until they either enhance the board in larger surf or.
A the boards keeps you in the lip to long
B it does not turn
C it is to slow
D too hard to paddle in
E non responsive
If you have encountered at least two of the above than it is time to get a fire going and dispose of your faulty equipment. Should you not like burning things or perhaps have a love of your board than it is best to just karate kick it into two. Piece of **** board to slow unresponsive nose diving rail bogging piece of snot.
Get your pay go to a shaper have a chat explain what you want be honest ( this is hard) tell him where you are, if possible join a board riders club. Go surfing
Thank you all for reading this has been brought to you by coolies waves and nimbins finest

Awesome responses - thanks so much for everyone's input
Specifically

GPA the hesitation resulting in ending up in a worse position definitely rings a bell!!

Razonater - what you were saying re shoulder versus peak makes so much sense but I doubt I would've figured it out myself! I am definitely a shoulder hoverer

Re boards I now have a pair of grant millers boards and they have definitely helped enormously compared to the off the peg home brand boards i spent the first couple of years on!!

BennyB12 said...
RAZZONATER!!
Best post ever!! How good is nimbin???

Agree

Nimbin is a **** hole filled with meth heads and smackies.the buds are crap and the great old Nimbin has long been gone. A shame really

On the balls,I think everyone has summed it up well. Taking a beating early generally helps as well. Unless its one of those life changing beatings that spook ya. Confidence is only good if ya got the ability to match it imo

Summed up in three words....Just ****ing Go!!!!

EnglishCraig said..

chrispy said...

BennyB12 said...
RAZZONATER!!
Best post ever!! How good is nimbin???

Agree

Nimbin is a **** hole filled with meth heads and smackies.the buds are crap and the great old Nimbin has long been gone. A shame really

On the balls,I think everyone has summed it up well. Taking a beating early generally helps as well. Unless its one of those life changing beatings that spook ya. Confidence is only good if ya got the ability to match it imo

Cheers Chrispy - I think my confidence and ability are pretty closely correlated!

Fitness helps also. The fitter you are the easier it is to take a beating, therefor more likely to take bigger waves than your norm..

Fitness stems right back to better confidence..

Have a look at Hedgey's round 2 heat at Chopes, instantly makes ya balls double in size. I'm inspired

EnglishCraig said...
Went out this morning with some serious eye of the tiger going on

Extra paddle and getting speed as well as sittin at the peak rather than just off of it

Got more waves in 1.5 hours than I have in the last month - stoked and wanted to share it

thanks to everyone who took the time to respond

Use your powers for good now