A crumbling reef turned into head high barrels with our storm over here in Perth. Add choppy conditions and the crazy wind, I don't think normal people would of paddled out. I only paddled out here because I spent too long staring at a protected spot and that was my down fall. Should of paddled out there because it was relatively decent.

So I paddled out on my little 5'6 twinnie (shortie was finless and I couldn't be bothered screwing in the fins). No trouble getting out, my troubles rose from getting on the wave. The board just wobbles like crazy and unless I crouch really low I'll fly off with a back flop and lip giving me a pat on the back

I've only been surfing for a year or so so I'm not putting pressure on myself to give it another shot but is it possible for us mere mortals? I just wished we'd get decent waves in Perth!!!

bene313 said...

Bruce Irons goes big Mexico on 4'9" and 5'4" quad kiteboards.......

*see emphasis - I've only been surfing for a year or so so I'm not putting pressure on myself to give it another shot but is it possible for us mere mortals? I just wished we'd get decent waves in Perth!!!

Sincerely the average weekend warrior.

learn to conquer a longboard first

newguy said...

chrispychru said...

learn to conquer a longboard first

Send 1 over from east and I will mate. Preferably with the 'M' trademark

We can do that but

*see emphasis - I've only been surfing for a year or so so I'm not putting pressure on myself to give it another shot but is it possible for us mere mortals? I just wished we'd get decent waves in Perth!!!

Sincerely the average weekend warrior.

I just thought the vid was good.

When it is big you need some length and rocker in your board. Also three fins (or four?) would be better for all conditions really.

At 70kg my current boards are 5'8 6'1 and 6'6. The 6'1 is my favourite good wave board and goes well in bigger stuff because it has a bit of rocker. The 6'6 is similar but thicker and paddles into the bigger surf much easier than the shorter boards. 5'8 is most used board due to small metro surf, has low rocker so goes fast but sticks on bigger waves.

In summary, you need more rocker on bigger and/or sucky waves. More length will help paddle into and stabilise in big surf. Three or four fins will also stabilise the board.

As for Perth having rubbish surf, it does, but you can start by picking the days. Eg. not surfing during a storm (yesterday), but surfing after (today).