I would start by pulling the hose off after the water pump and start the engine to check whether the pump is working. You could also just put your finger on the face plate while the engine is running and check that it is cold. The cooling passages in the block sound like they are blocked with calcium. Not enough water is getting to the exhaust elbow, the rubber should only get warm.
Any diagram from a raw water cooled motor will be pretty much the same as what you have. Because the engine starts and runs well the exhaust is unlikely to be blocked. The problem will be in the passages.
Spend sometime watching a few Barnacle buster videos. Most of them are for heat exchanger engines but it works the same as raw water cooled engines. You don't have to use the Barnacle buster product of course, there are plenty of cheaper alternatives.
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