building the mold
Im using a peice of concretors formply again, as it is waterproof and smooths out easily


here Ive marked out a 12"rim and a 16"rim by having the radius marked on a peice of ply, screwing a small screw into the wood and drawing the circle. when I cut out I make it about a cm wider to keep the edge flat.

the screwhole is then used as the centre mark for the mold Ive drilled out to 10mm , simply because I have a pile of 10mm offcuts of threaded rod.I wouldnt go smaller, possibly 12mm would be an ideal size. Ive marked out the positions with a protractor and cut a groove in the edge to mark where the spokes will line up

for those unwilling to do the calculation
3spokes-120degrees
5 spokes-72 degrees
7 spokes-51.5 degrees
If you prefer another number of spokes you'll have to do your own sums.
I would use 3 spokes for a 16",5 for 20" 7 for a 26"

whilst youve got your wood and jigsaw out cut a second disk ,and drill it out with the same size drill. this will be used as a clamping plate to get rid of this little step



heres the 2 nylon molding plugs that Ive made up to give something to build up the bearing housings. the ally pipe sits on the left hand piece when it is being glassed into place. the middle one allows you to build up a glass housing that will fit over the ally when the final assembly takes place.
I wont go into any discussions on ally hubs/glass hubs. this is the system Im really happy with, this wheel will be number 12 and all the housings so far have been successful


when the first disk is being prepared for laying up ,the molding , the middle one is bolted down and series of small nails are hammered in around the scored ring .
when the rim is layed into place it should fit snug

heres the nails and also the grooge to show where the spoke will go.

the roundness can now be checked by simply running a tape around the rim. this one is within 1mm all round

the rim can now be taken out, but I will be putting it back on to make sure there is a good surface to glue to

sorry about the lazy week, I did all the next stage a week ago but got kinda busy , then lazy , then lost the office for a week, so here goes , lets do some fibreglassing
Ive started by using my top disk as a guide for cutting out the various layers of glass, rather than cutting them out whilst the resin in going off.
each side will have 2 discs of 250gm chopped strand and 1 layer of 8oz woven cloth. the small scraps left from the cutting out have been cut into smaller pieces to use in sections in the hub ,rim and ribs


note the cutout for the centre. an alternative to the woven is to use a layer of glass tissue,and a third layer of chopped strand, instead of the woven cloth. the purpose of that first layer is to make sure that the chopped strand doesnt poke through the resin on the outer surface, it looks rough basically.

heres all the bits i will be using. notice some 50mm tape , you could use a strip of chopped strand, but im getting lazy,also some strips of tape for the bearing hub, instead of carbon.there is some pieces of straight roving that i will use in the build up of the hub, but very small pieces of cloth or chopped strand will be fine to mix with the cotton flock, you will also need some strips of chopped strand for the ribs.
I use 2 layers of 250gm .
note a 25 and 50mm brush and a 12mm ribbed roller. you will need a small roller like this to get a good bubble free layup

before I mix resin I stack all the layers for each side ready to put them in the mold. i doesnt seem important when making a little 16", but when its a big 26" its handy to just grab the next piece

Heres my improved rib mold. I can now whip up whatever size I need, 50, 75,100mm . apologies for jumping from metric to imperial, thats just how it is Im afraid



right, back to the mold.
wax on ,wax off, wax on , wax off. Ive used 2 coats of wax, smear some on let it dry, buff it OFF, then wax again then buff off again.
then wipe on a layer of PVA mold release. let it dry


.
I have a little table that i put all the messy stuff on whilst working , its just an old box with legs added . on top i have a container with some talc in it for dusting hands, box of gloves underneath, extra catalyst, mixing sticks,rags for emergency mop up, spare measuring cup
scales, measuring cup current small container of catalyst, scales on top, acetone on the floor underneath


before I start mixing resin I prep the bog i will use for the bearing hub.
Its a small handful of chopped up glass, 2 tablespoons of cotton flock ( or cabosil) in a shallow container, ready to add resin



for thsi side of the wheel Im using 250gms of resin , so add 2.5mm catalyst(1%)
. Ive placed the layer of cloth dry onto the mold the poured on some resin, and brushed,and smoothed the cloth flat , using enough resin to get rid of the bubbles.



then I add the ring of cloth strips that will toughen up the bearing housing,

this is wetted in then lay down my layers of of chopped strand.

Ive also added a strip of glass on the edge , just to toughen it all up at the rim. this is where the little roller comes up trumps, add just enough resin to wet it out , without having resin pooling on the surface

sorry I havent posted for a few days , but Im having to actually work all day , in order to go sailing this weekend.
yesterday I was visited by AUS230 who commented on just how stiff the discs were compared to his epoxy ones, he was also suprised at just how solid and thick the bearing housings were.
I think Im finally tempting him to go all composite
he wandered off with 10 steel rims , so lordy knows what he will be up to next.
Im sooooo looking forward to seeing what the solid winged BERMINATOR can do on the weekend

well no horse heads were delivered during the last 2 weeks so presumably it was caught by quarantine, and tracked back to the dill who sent the threat
sorry ive been busy with stuff, but back to the wheel.
here is the mold all cleaned , waxed and PVA'd ready to do side 2 and complete the wheel. the little nails are back in thier holes, the rim has been dropped on to check on how central it is.
note that the rim has now been roughed up all over the surfaces to be glued or glassed have been roughed up with the sanding disk or even the wire wheel.
the other nylon plug that fits the aluminium spacer has been bolted in on a longer threaded rod, as the top plate will be bolted on. the length of the ally spacer is based on the rim width and bearing thickness
50mm+2x2.5mm(glass thickness)=55mm
minus 2x12mm( bearing thickness)=24mm
55-24=31mm
grooves have been cut in the ally by lathe or even a file /hacksaw

the previously made disc has been trimmed of excess glass and the surface where the ribs and rims are going to stick has been rough with the disc sander.
Ive also marked the outside of the disc where the spokes will sit.


remove the rim and simply repeat the steps to produce the first disc

Ive mixed 250gms of resin. when the disc has been layed up i then use 50mm of that resin to mix with cotton flock. and mix a batch that is pasty enough to still brush onto the rim. one face and half the inner rim is wetted with this mix


the rim is turned over and placed in the mold. then the edge is glassed into place .
MAKE SURE that the valve hole lines up in a space between 2 ribs. I had run out of mixed resin so a further 100gms was mixed, 50gms would have surficed, but its tricky to measure catalyst for such a small amount.Ive used some 50mm tape but chopped strand strips would be fine.


once this has been done its time to place the ribs. any smoothed surfaces have been trimmed and roughed by disc sanderand checked to make sure they fit.
Ive mixed a second batch of cotton flock paste , again thick but still brushable
all the surfaces to be glued are all covered,and any lumps in the rib and hub area smoothed over

then the first disc is placed on. remeber to place some flock on the ally spacerready to take the hub. you did remember to check the fit earlier of course

the wooden top is seated and bolted down with just a few clamps this time.
so much neater i think
Ive clamped it just enough to get a consistent squeezing out of flock, notice it doesnt slump or run as the consistencey is just nice


there was 50mm of resin left over so think about what little job you can have ready to use the resin .
in my case it is the hull of the next offcut sloopall 1250mm long to race the little schooner on a dam

after it all cures I will show how I cleanup an balance the rim ready to fit the tyre

Redirect my Question to General- Capiche-Landyacht
Ron

Great work!